Gdańsk’s food scene has changed beyond recognition over the past twenty years, but Maciej Dąbski has never felt the need to chase every new trend. At Swojski Smak, he’s kept Polish tradition alive with honest cooking, forgotten flavours and pork chops big enough to make you question your ambitions. We sat down with Maciej to talk family inspiration, two decades in the restaurant business and why sometimes, old school still kicks ass.
MACIEJ, WHAT WERE YOU DOING BEFORE SWOJSKI SMAK?
I spent several years working for international corporations, but always dreamed of running my own business. Perhaps I inherited that from my grandmother, a real businesswoman who owned a tailoring workshop.
WHY OPEN A TRADITIONAL POLISH RESTAURANT?
Over twenty years ago, Gdańsk had far fewer restaurants. I missed places serving simple, honest Polish food made with fresh ingredients. So my business partner and I created one.
HOW HAS GDAŃSK’S FOOD SCENE CHANGED?
Enormously! Today there’s something for every taste and budget. Watching new concepts appear is fascinating. We combine old-school hospitality with modern ideas, proving tradition still matters.
HOW DO YOU KEEP TRADITIONAL FOOD INTERESTING?
By listening to guests, travelling and discovering flavours across Poland. Our weekend specials let every chef experiment and introduce something new.
WHAT SHOULD READERS TRY THIS AUTUMN?
Definitely our venison dishes. Wild game is a wonderful Polish tradition that’s been somewhat forgotten. Our chef has created two autumn dishes rooted in traditional cooking.
AND THAT LEGENDARY HUGE PORK CHOP?
Pork chops have always been favourites here. Now we serve several versions, including lumberjack, Kashubian, royal and traditional. They’re absolute must-haves!
You’ve created a dish called “Polish Cuisine in a Nutshell” — beef roulade, duck and venison all sharing one plate. If a foreign visitor had just one meal to understand Polish food, would this be your choice?
We created it especially for international visitors curious about Polish food. Beef roulade, duck and venison together offer a little journey through our culinary traditions. One plate, several distinctly Polish flavours.
OVER 150 POLISH VODKAS. HOW DID THAT HAPPEN?
We wanted Swojski Smak to have something genuinely distinctive. Our collection celebrates Polish vodka’s history, craftsmanship and extraordinary variety. Among the highlights are Młody Ziemniak 2016, Śliwowica Podbeskidzka and U’Luvka.
We even have our own Wódka Domu Swojski Smak, produced exclusively for us by a craft distillery. It comes in fruit, potato and three-grain varieties, plus traditional przepalanka. You don’t need to be an expert to appreciate the differences.
CAN VODKA REALLY COMPETE WITH WINE AT DINNER?
Absolutely. Wine doesn’t have a monopoly on food pairing! Potato vodka works beautifully with beef tartare, our house vodka complements meat-filled pierogi, and herbal varieties suit mushrooms and spices. For dessert, try cherry liqueur with chocolate or mirabelle plum with fruit. The secret is balance. Drinks should complement the food, never overpower it.
WHAT’S YOUR PERFECT SWOJSKI SMAK LUNCH?
Our pork chop, naturally! I’d choose the smaller version. We also offer 20% off the menu on weekdays between 12:00 and 14:00, making traditional restaurant cooking more accessible, particularly for people working nearby.
FINAL ONE. EVER PUT SOMETHING COMPLETELY UNEXPECTED ON THE MENU?
That’s exactly what our weekend specials are for! They give our chefs freedom to experiment with seasonal ingredients and surprising combinations. We’ve even served curry. Tradition doesn’t mean refusing to try something different.